Acne facial or dermatologist?

The short answer

It depends on what you are seeing on your skin. A facial can give oily, congested or breakout-prone skin a thorough professional cleanse, including careful extraction of blackheads and clogged pores. It is cosmetic care, not medical treatment for acne. Deep, painful lumps, and breakouts that have not responded to over-the-counter products, belong with a dermatologist.

The two are not either-or. If you are under a dermatologist’s care, ask whether a facial fits around your treatment. Tempted to squeeze a blemish yourself in the meantime? Our guide to facial extractions or squeezing at home explains why dermatologists advise against it.

What an acne facial does

The RRYL Acne Facial is a 60-minute facial with Bouchra Sfakes, one-on-one, in her private studio. It includes:

• a thorough cleanse to remove oil, makeup and surface buildup
• exfoliation to lift away dead skin cells
• warm steam to soften the skin before extractions
• careful extraction of blackheads and clogged pores
• high frequency, a professional device passed lightly over the skin
• a purifying mask chosen for oily and congested skin
• blue LED light to finish

A facial is not a medical treatment for acne and does not replace one. RRYL does not promise clear skin: results vary from person to person.

What a dermatologist does that a facial cannot

A dermatologist is a doctor. They can diagnose what is causing your breakouts, prescribe treatment and build a plan around your skin. The American Academy of Dermatology also describes procedures a dermatologist can perform, such as a corticosteroid injection for a deep, painful cyst, or draining a large cyst with a sterile blade or needle.

Four signs to see a dermatologist first

These follow the Academy’s guidance on types of acne and its advice on acne that will not clear:

• Deep, painful lumps. The Academy says nodules and cysts always need a dermatologist, and that starting treatment early means fewer permanent scars.
• Over-the-counter products have not helped. The Academy says these usually take about six to eight weeks to show results. If you see no change by then, it is time to ask.
• Many red, inflamed bumps. The Academy suggests seeing a dermatologist if you have a lot of them.
• It is affecting how you feel. Acne that makes you uncomfortable is reason enough to see one.

When a facial can be a good fit

A facial suits skin that feels oily or congested, with blackheads and clogged pores, when you want a thorough professional cleanse. You can talk your skin through with Bouchra at the start. If you are unsure which appointment you need, get in touch before you book, or ask your doctor.

A word on extractions

The Academy warns that popping pimples at home can cause permanent scars, infection and more noticeable acne, and that pushing a blemish can drive its contents deeper into the skin. It describes extraction by a dermatologist, with sterile instruments, for blackheads and whiteheads, usually when other treatment has not worked. So please leave deep or inflamed blemishes alone, and raise them with your dermatologist.

A word on blue light

Blue LED finishes the RRYL Acne Facial, and it is cosmetic care. It should not be mistaken for medical acne treatment. Evidence on light treatment is limited: a 2016 Cochrane review found low-certainty evidence for one medical form of it, photodynamic therapy activated by blue light, in moderate to severe acne. That is a different treatment from the light used in a facial, but it is a useful reminder to be wary of big promises about any light device.

If you are on prescription acne treatment

Ask your dermatologist before booking any facial, and tell us when you book. This matters most with isotretinoin. US prescribing information says to avoid wax hair removal and skin resurfacing procedures, such as dermabrasion and laser, during treatment and for at least six months afterwards, because of the possibility of scarring. The Academy also advises avoiding exfoliants while taking it, as skin is more sensitive. Your prescriber knows your treatment and is the right person to say what is suitable and when. At RRYL, Bouchra may suggest a gentler facial.

If you are pregnant

Please let us know you’re pregnant when booking, and check with your doctor if you have any concerns. The RRYL Pregnancy Facial uses products and techniques chosen for pregnancy, and our guide Can you get a facial while pregnant? explains what changes in the appointment.

The Acne Facial at RRYL

• 60 minutes with Bouchra, one-on-one, at 501 Fifth Avenue, Suite 707.
• Bouchra trained in esthetics at Atelier Esthétique Institute of Esthetics in New York (600-hour program, 2001). She is a New York State licensed esthetician.
• Listed at $250. Also available as a package of 4 sessions ($1,000) or 6 sessions ($1,500); ask when you book or call the studio.
• In the booking calendar, open Other Facials and choose RRYL Acne Facial.

Read more on the Acne Facial page. If your breakouts are on your back, see the Back Facial.

Frequently asked questions

Can a facial cure acne?
No. A facial is cosmetic care and not a medical treatment for acne. Persistent or severe breakouts are best looked after with a dermatologist.

Should I see a dermatologist or an esthetician for blackheads?
An esthetician can extract blackheads and clogged pores during a facial. The Academy suggests a dermatologist if they last beyond about six to eight weeks of over-the-counter treatment, or if you want prescription treatment.

Can I have a facial while seeing a dermatologist?
Ask your dermatologist first, and tell us about your treatment when you book.

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology: How to treat different types of acne
• American Academy of Dermatology: Pimple popping: Why only a dermatologist should do it
• American Academy of Dermatology: 9 things to try when acne won’t clear
• American Academy of Dermatology: Isotretinoin: The truth about safety, side effects, and skin care
• DailyMed: isotretinoin capsules, US prescribing information (Upsher-Smith, revised 2/2022), section 17
• Cochrane: The use of light as a therapy for acne (2016)